Ordering is the most practised exchange of any trip, and it is largely fixed. How many people, smoking or not, what you want, and whether it is together or separate. Learn the sequence and you can eat anywhere.

Two things surprise visitors. There is no tipping, and attempting it causes confusion rather than pleasure. And in most restaurants you pay at the register on the way out, taking the slip left on your table with you — waiting for the bill to be brought over can mean waiting a long time.